Lost Spider of the Ocean

It is, to many of us a well known fact that much of our oceans have been overfished, although really, it is a small minority of species that have borne the brunt of our human need for eating fish. This begs the question, why do we not eat a greater variety of fish in our country? Is it because we lack the confidence, knowledge or passion to experiement or is it simply, ignorance? The spider crab is an excellent example of our attitude to the fish that we eat, thus it can be almost impossible to find on a fishmongers slab. However, just the other day, while shopping at Esher farmers market, I was delighted to find a fisherman who was brave enough to bring some to market. He had travelled all the way from South Devon, laden with lemon soles, bass, mackerel, lobsters and the reddish, orange to brown crustaceans long neglected by British fisherman. Their value is limited in the British Isles, so much of it is sent to the more apprecitive French and Spanish, who respect its deep, sweet tasting flesh.
Prizing the meat from its thin legs is a a painstaking process but with patience you can extract enough to feed two people. The shells should not be discarded, as they will create a delicious rich stock for making risotto, creating pasta dishes or as a base for fish soup.
That evening I created a simple salad with salty samphire,a few capers, sprigs of chopped fennel and a light lemon, anchovy and olive oil dressing. Served with a generous twist of black pepper, this was seasonal cooking at its best and at £3.00 for the crab, surely we should overcome our fear of the unknown and take a punt on the lost spider of the ocean.

A Family Affair

Taverna Odisseas

Aghia Jerusalem

Lunch: 18th June 2009

"For me the type of fish isn't important, it is the freshness that matters. It is all about choosing the best cooking method to achieve the best results", explains an impassioned Odisseas.
Such a philosophy on food is heartening and at this idyllic taverna in Aghia Jerusalem it forms the foundation on a daily basis. When I arrived at 10.30am, it was only his mother whom I found, already well advanced in preparing the days specials. The yeasty aroma of dough, mixed with wild sage, lavender and wafts of meatiness from the oven at the rear, sent my stomach into spasms of anticipation. Long loaves of bread incorporated with deep purple olives, tomato and the ubiquitous feta cheese lay ready on a solid tray heavily dusted with flour. She ushered me into the kitchen, opening the oven to reveal an oregano crusted whole belly pork, its fatty interior oozing out, mixing with olive oil, salt, pepper and mustard that soaked into wedges of potato. Stuffed peppers with tomato bake in another tray, while shredded courgettes blend with creamy sheep's cheese to form a rustic tart.
With lunch served from 11.30am, I sought refuge under an old fig tree that provides the only shade on the pebble beach opposite. The beautiful clear waters of the Ionian sea lapped to the shore, as fishing boats swayed in the ocean. The constant chorus of cicadas interspersed with the occasional shrill of a gull and a bark from a dog provided natures musical symphony.
The small, rustic taverna was a twenty minute drive from the yacht obsessed harbour of Fiscardo. Winding down steep roads to the bay of Aghia Jerusalem, through a largely unspoilt landscape. The basic seating area is concealed by a canopy of grape vines, where we found the owners sister enjoying a strong espresso. Her brother (the boss) appeared carrying a plastic tub with deep red, gleaming scorpion fish, their prominent mouth, highlighting this rock loving creature. " if you had time, I would love to prepare a soup for you," explains Odisseas, " although, I also recommend it grilled and sprinkled with olive oil, lemon and pepper." Fish is expensive on the island of Keffalonia, which I found slightly surprising, although it is in part due to overfishing and this variety alone would cost a hefty 55 euros a kilo. I settled for a fish weighing 500g, as a compromise to my aching wallet.
The owners enthusiasm for simple, rustic cooking was influenced by his father and he extolled the virtues by highlighting the knowledge he has happily taken on.
As the food arrived, a gentle breeze brushing our skin, it feels like we have been invited to someones home. A slab of creamy feta cheese arrives balanced on top of chunks of tomato, sliced green peppers, cucumber and delicious piquant pickled caper leaves. The soft, moist interior of the bread is stunningly balanced by a thick, crunchy crust, salty feta blending seamlessly with juicy olives, tomatoes and back notes of coarse black pepper. The belly pork, was meltingly tender, packed with flavour and served lukewarm, as is the custom with much of Greek food. The lightly charcoal tinged Scorpion fish arrived dressed with slices of lemon and stuffed with onion and parsley. A meaty texture, defied a rather bland flesh, that was crying out for the addition of the accompanying olive oil, lemon and black pepper dressing. Two and half hours later, we are eating candied orange peel, delighted to have found this hidden gem.

Secret Garden

Secret Garden

15/06/09

Lunch at Polyphemus

As we were taking our final instructions before departing from the yacht obsessed harbour of Fiscardo, I turned to the dark, leather skinned owner and asked, “ where is your favourite restaurant on Kefallonia” With the time it takes to knock back a shot of ouzo, his reply brings not an answer, rather a swaggering endorsement of a healthy home-grown food culture, “ my wife is an excellent cook” came his effortless reply.
Ithaki, believed to be the mythical home of Homer’s Odysseus, is a tranquil, diminutive island, just a short hop from Fiscardo, across the crystal clear Ionian Sea and was to provide a memorable lunch destination. Stepping from our modest hire boat and undeterred but inspired by the earlier comment, we set off up the energy sapping winding road for the twenty minute hike to the village of Stavros. (Some kind locals offered us a lift after 10 minutes, allowing us respite from the searing midday heat)
Polyphemus is a traditional taverna, beautifully overseen by a wonderful Swiss lady, who brims with enthusiasm for the cooking that is prepared there. Every table received her full tireless repertoire of menu descriptions that left you in a gastronomic spin, making the choice a difficult one.
The setting is charming and cool, shaded by olive trees with strings of bulging, juicy garlic draped from their branches and random lanterns hanging for added ambience at night.
A chilled crisp, fruity local rose wine, drawn directly from the barrel, was refreshingly good and served in a ½ litre red metal jug. Crisp, lightly fried courgette croquettes ( kolokythokeftédes) encase shredded zucchini, garlic and hints of lemon. Golden, crunchy pitta bread, scattered with shavings of local salty sheep’s cheese was readily smothered with a creamy split pea dip (fava) containing diced red onion and pools of fruity extra virgin olive oil. Having delighted in skordalia the previous evening to accompany fried rockfish, my curiosity led me to order sun-dried octopus and savóro but not before our impassioned host had deepened my knowledge of skordalia. The smooth potato puree, infused with extra virgin olive oil and a powerful hit of raw garlic was, she said, usually served cold but in her opinion it is enhanced if served warm.
The intense flavour of the octopus was none the worse for being a little chewy and a brief charring on the grill developed a smoky taste. Soaking bread in the vinegary, oil and oregano marinade was a pure delight and a shot of chilled ouzo comes highly recommended. The old traditional dish of savóro involves first frying a whole sea bream, then marinating in vinegar, garlic, wild dried rosemary and plump currants. Usually left overnight, it is then gently reheated to release all the flavours. The gentle sweet and sour balance mellows in the mouth, just allowing the flavour of the fish to come through.
With the heat residing slightly, we ambled back down the hill, accompanied by the sensuous scent of wild sage, our stomachs and soul replenished by a delicious meal. Home cooking may be at the heart of Greek Island cuisine but this was an impressive substitute.