A Family Affair

Taverna Odisseas

Aghia Jerusalem

Lunch: 18th June 2009

"For me the type of fish isn't important, it is the freshness that matters. It is all about choosing the best cooking method to achieve the best results", explains an impassioned Odisseas.
Such a philosophy on food is heartening and at this idyllic taverna in Aghia Jerusalem it forms the foundation on a daily basis. When I arrived at 10.30am, it was only his mother whom I found, already well advanced in preparing the days specials. The yeasty aroma of dough, mixed with wild sage, lavender and wafts of meatiness from the oven at the rear, sent my stomach into spasms of anticipation. Long loaves of bread incorporated with deep purple olives, tomato and the ubiquitous feta cheese lay ready on a solid tray heavily dusted with flour. She ushered me into the kitchen, opening the oven to reveal an oregano crusted whole belly pork, its fatty interior oozing out, mixing with olive oil, salt, pepper and mustard that soaked into wedges of potato. Stuffed peppers with tomato bake in another tray, while shredded courgettes blend with creamy sheep's cheese to form a rustic tart.
With lunch served from 11.30am, I sought refuge under an old fig tree that provides the only shade on the pebble beach opposite. The beautiful clear waters of the Ionian sea lapped to the shore, as fishing boats swayed in the ocean. The constant chorus of cicadas interspersed with the occasional shrill of a gull and a bark from a dog provided natures musical symphony.
The small, rustic taverna was a twenty minute drive from the yacht obsessed harbour of Fiscardo. Winding down steep roads to the bay of Aghia Jerusalem, through a largely unspoilt landscape. The basic seating area is concealed by a canopy of grape vines, where we found the owners sister enjoying a strong espresso. Her brother (the boss) appeared carrying a plastic tub with deep red, gleaming scorpion fish, their prominent mouth, highlighting this rock loving creature. " if you had time, I would love to prepare a soup for you," explains Odisseas, " although, I also recommend it grilled and sprinkled with olive oil, lemon and pepper." Fish is expensive on the island of Keffalonia, which I found slightly surprising, although it is in part due to overfishing and this variety alone would cost a hefty 55 euros a kilo. I settled for a fish weighing 500g, as a compromise to my aching wallet.
The owners enthusiasm for simple, rustic cooking was influenced by his father and he extolled the virtues by highlighting the knowledge he has happily taken on.
As the food arrived, a gentle breeze brushing our skin, it feels like we have been invited to someones home. A slab of creamy feta cheese arrives balanced on top of chunks of tomato, sliced green peppers, cucumber and delicious piquant pickled caper leaves. The soft, moist interior of the bread is stunningly balanced by a thick, crunchy crust, salty feta blending seamlessly with juicy olives, tomatoes and back notes of coarse black pepper. The belly pork, was meltingly tender, packed with flavour and served lukewarm, as is the custom with much of Greek food. The lightly charcoal tinged Scorpion fish arrived dressed with slices of lemon and stuffed with onion and parsley. A meaty texture, defied a rather bland flesh, that was crying out for the addition of the accompanying olive oil, lemon and black pepper dressing. Two and half hours later, we are eating candied orange peel, delighted to have found this hidden gem.